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All material © Adrian Fletcher 2000-08 - The contents may not be reproduced without permission - Adrian Fletcher can be contacted at afletch at paradoxplace dot com
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CIAO ADRIANO
With Gislebertus in Autun (Central Burgundy) (Cathédrale St-Lazare)
Early September 2007
THE ROUTE TO DATE WITH MAPS OF FRANCE AND OF ITS MEDIEVAL PILGRIMAGE ROADS
Back to Ciao Adriano North Burgundy Overview
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Autun's cathedral was built between 1120 and 1146, the intention being to have a great church (it was not then the cathedral) that would house the relics of St Lazarus (brother of Mary Magdalene) which the town had obtained in the late 900s, and thus become a focal point for pilgrims that would generate the same sort of moolah as that enjoyed by neighbouring Vézelay where his sister was (claimed to be). The church was consecrated by Pope Innocent II in 1130.
The present cathedral exterior is dominated by gothic structures put up after a fire in the late 1400s, but when you walk around to the central doorway you come face to faces with the first of the great surviving examples of Romanesque sculpture in Europe. Created (and, unusually, signed) by Gislebertus, who had previously worked at Vézelay, the tympanum (above) and its surrounds are awe inspiring.
The existence of this masterpiece today is mainly down to the canons of 1766, who decided that the carvings were mediocre and childish, and covered everything in a thick layer of plaster adorned with unchildish decorative motives that looked so ordinary that nobody bothered with them in the French angry years between 1786 and 1834. During this time the unprotected tympanum of the north doorway and the tomb of Saint Lazarus were both destroyed. In 1837 another canon was passing the time of day chipping away the plaster, when he discovered the almost perfectly preserved original 1130s tympanum underneath.
In a semicircle around the tympanum are 27 stone roundels with carvings illustrating the months / zodiac signs and the typical activities going on. This was a common subject of representation in early Romanesque churches, and also manifests itself in capitals, floor roundels, doors and stained glass. Time has seen most of these disappear, and complete sets are very rare - which is why we came back here to take a few more photos! Other examples are a similarly well preserved set at Vezelay, two door sets and a stained glass window in Chartres and the amazing mosaiced floor of Otranto Cattedrale in Puglia, S Italy.
Inside the cathedral, the Romanesque style is retained in the nave and aisles (with the appearance of a lot of scaffolding since we were here last year). When your eyes have adjusted to the gloom, you can still see many of the second of the cathedral's Romanesque glories, the carved capitals. Some of the better capitals by Gislebertus himself were removed during an earlier remodel of the choir, and can now be seen in the (very) upstairs chapter house.
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The Cathedral is at the top of the sleepy town - an attractive and not heavily trafficked area
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New photo of Gislebertus' Tympanum (above) - below are two of the roundels missing from last year's visit - Aquarius the water carrier on the left, and Sagittarius the archer on the right.
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The next door Musée Rolin has some other rescued materials, but the reason to go there is Gislebertus' "Temptation of Eve" (below, though it is not clear whether our woman is tempted or tempter). This huge work (the exhibit must be a couple of meters across) was part of the lintel of the cathedral's north door, the rest of which has disappeared. Like the tympanum and capitals, it dates from the 1130s.
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Meantime, back in the Cathedral and up 50 spiral stone steps to the chapter house ........
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The Angel Gabriel awakens one of the sleeping Magi and points to a star in the East
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And off they go to see baby Jesus (with Joseph keeping out of the way on the right) |
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Lunch at the Restaurant La Fontaine - a Paradox recommendation in the shadow of the cathedral. Avoid the larger and more touristy place next door! |
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Foie Gras block
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French Chicken Pie
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And back down the hill in the main town square, another white van has appeared, this time trying to get close and personal with Miss P, our Peugeot.
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Go to the Page LIst for a full listing of pages and their status
All material © Adrian Fletcher 2000-08 - The contents may not be reproduced without permission - Adrian Fletcher can be contacted at afletch at paradoxplace dot com
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